Lizard Head Trail to Wilson Meadows

The Lizard Head Trail crosses through the eastern part of the mountainous Lizard Head Wilderness Area in southwest Colorado south of Telluride along Highway 145.

From the trail head at Lizard Head Pass, at 10,250 feet, the route starts north, cuts west behind Black Face Mountain and then north again. About 1.5 miles along the trail, a side trail descends into a basin area called Wilson Meadows. It is about a 6 mile round trip to visit this scenic spot.

The Wilson Meadows Trail runs more or less parallel with the Lizard head Trail. In late June there was still too much snow in the spruce forest to follow the Lizard head Trail to its junction with the Cross Mountain Trail and make a loop hike. The Lizard Head Peak is 13,113 feet.

The first mile of the Lizard Head Trail heads north to a point that overlooks Trout Lake through the aspen, spruce and fir forest. The trail then has several switchbacks giving higher and better views. There are several scree slopes on the west side of the trail. The road that runs along the north side of Trout Lake is part of the Galloping Goose Trail, a 21 mile route from Lizard Head Pass to Telluride that follows the old railroad grade.

At about the 2 mile point there is a trail sign pointing left and down and unlikely clay hill. From above it doesn’t appear that the trail could possibly go this way, but it does. This is about 20 minutes of hiking before arriving at Wilson Meadows. I’ve followed what appears to be the more likely trail straight ahead and it leads to a sloping meadow area that is scenic but not as good as Wilson Meadows.

Wilson Meadows receives snowmelt from many directions and is soggy in the bottoms area, and rich with wildflowers. The area is a basin surrounded by peaks on all sides. The peaks to the immediate northwest of Lizards Head aren’t named on the map I had but are about 12,000 to 13,000 feet high. Wilsons Creek drains the meadows, flowing to the north.

This might be San Bernardo Mountain on the north side at 11,861 feet. It took me about 2:00 hours to arrive at Wilson Meadows where I lingered for about 1:00 hour.

My return hike took 1:30 hours for a total hike of 4:30 hours. I carried two liters of water on a June day that was about 55 F when I started at 9:00 AM and 68 F at 1:30 PM. It was a clear day with some wind gusts in the exposed spots.

Bear Creek Falls Trail

The Bear Creek Falls Trail is a popular 2.2 mile climb up along Bear Creek on the south side of Telluride Town in southwest Colorado.

The Trailhead is on the south end of Pine Street and is right off of the San Miguel River Trail that scenically flows through town.

I started my hike from the free parking lot on the southwest side of town and walked for 10 or 15 minutes along the River Trail before arriving at the Bear Creek Trail Head. There is an interpretive map of the trail posted near the Trail Head that describes some points of interest. The trail climbs a little more than 1000 feet.

There were quite a few hikers on the wide trail in early June, also joggers, dog walkers, families with children and one mountain biker. I’m always impressed in Telluride by how many nice looking dogs there are here, and how well behaved they all seem to be. Not mentioned on the interpretive map is the view of the in town beaver pond that is along the River Trail.

The forest along here is mostly Aspens and Engelmann Spruce and there are mountain views in both directions. Some of the points of interest are related to the mining era, but these are mostly sites without much remaining. The remains of a flume run across the trail and there are a few cables visible here and there.

Just below the falls one of the points of interest is called The Big Rock. Among the mountains visible back to the north along the trail are Greenback Mountain and St. Sophia’s Ridge.

Just before the Bear Creek Falls there is a trail junction with the Wasatch Trail for those who want to keep going higher. The Wasatch trail is a single track trail rather than an old road. It switchbacks steeply along a side creek for about 0.5 miles then turns south, still climbing but not as steeply.

The map I had showed a possible loop route off the Wasatch Trail into Mountain Village. Otherwise, the Wasatch Trail continues toward the Ophir area.

I went about one mile up the trail before running into snow patches that were somewhat hazardous without technical equipment and met two climbers who said it got worse further up, so I turned back. I was able to get across the snow patches pictured here but I did it awkwardly and didn’t like it.

The snow patches had flowing water below them and besides the danger of skidding several hundred yards down the steep slope, there was also a danger of a snow bridge collapsing.

From my starting point it took me 1:15 to reach the Bear Creek Falls and I continued about 1 mile further in another hour. Going down took me about 1:40 hours for a total hike of nearly 4 hours for about 7.5 miles.

Cross Mountain Trail to Lizard Head Peak

The Cross Mountain Trail is in the Lizard Head Wilderness in the San Juan National Forest in southwest Colorado.  The starting elevation at the trail head is about 10,080 feet. The elevation at the junction with the Lizard Head Trail, below the peak, is about 12,000 feet.

The trail directly approaches the signature Lizard Head Peak and connects to a network of trails that visit this area of high peaks including Colorado 14ers Mt. Wilson and El Diente.

The Cross Mountain Trail Head is about two miles south of the Lizard Head Pass on the west side of Highway 145. There are other trail heads at the Lizard Head pass also, including the Wilson Meadows Trail and the Galloping Goose Trail. This trail head also provides access to the Groundhog Stock Trail,  and the East Fork Trail begins directly across the highway on the east side.

After passing the junction leading left with the Groundhog Stock Trail that travels to The Meadows area, the trail cuts through a thick forest of Fir and Spruce, and then it opens on to a high meadow giving spectacular mountain views.

To the south is Cross Mountain, 12,703 ft, showing off an orange color. The group of mountains to the east of the Lizard Head Pass show some similar colors.

Lizard head is an odd formation, a spike that sticks up, in an area with a mostly normally shaped mountain peaks. The elevation is given at 13,113 feet. From this angle it doesn't look like the head of a lizard, but it does stand out and is visible in the Cortez, CO area more than 60 miles away.

It took me about 2:15 hours to go about 3 miles to the base of the Lizard Head, where there is a T junction with the Lizard Head Trail. I turned right and continued east along the trail, along the base of the Head for a few more minutes to a point where is a saddle giving views of all the peaks to the east.

The trail leading to the left goes into the Bilk Basin where there is a large waterfall. Try viewing from the different angle there before deciding if the Lizard Head is mis-named

The Lizard Head Trail going east connects to the Wilson Meadows Trail that starts at the Lizard Head Pass allowing for a loop hike. This segment stays snowy longer into the season than other segments of the trail. The Lizard Head is very difficult to climb due to the rotten nature of the rock and is only for extreme experts.

Willow Divide Trail

The Willow Divide Trail is a 30 mile loop ATV trail, and Forest Road 727, that climbs about 2000 feet to the high mesa area between the West Fork of the Dolores River and Fish Creek in the San Juan National Forest in southwest Colorado. This area is just to the southwest of the Lizard Head Wilderness Area.

I started at the south trail head along Forest Road 535. Traveling from the south this is about 25 miles north of the town of Dolores along paved roads. From Telluride, Road 535 intersects with Highway 145 a few miles south of Lizard Head Pass and is marked as the Dunton Road.
The trail is a 4WD drive road that climbs steadily with switchbacks. The lower part of the route has good views to the south down the West Fork valley and across the valley to Stoner Mesa. There are other trail heads nearby, the Goble Trail and Fish Creek Trails are just to the south and the north end of the Stoner Mesa Trail is across the valley on top of the mesa. Further up the views open up to the north toward the Rico Mountains. I was hoping to see the high peaks of the Lizard Head area but no luck. The lower trail forest has Ponderosa Pines and Aspens and Gambel Oak and a few Narrow Leaf Cottonwoods.

After 2:00 hours and about five miles I arrived at what I took to be the loop junction. I stayed to the right, still on Road 727, which seemed to continue to climb slightly.

The route to the left is narrower and seems to stay along a level contour. The forest here is dominated more by Engelmann Spruce and there are views to the west over Fish Creek to Black Mesa.

I continued on for another 40 minutes and there were a few glimpses of Dolores Peak and a distant glimpse of El Diente but the views were mostly obscured by the thick forest.
I think that the north end of this route has the second hut on the Durango to Moab hut to hut mountain bike route but I didn't go that far. The first hut is near Bolam Pass at the east end of the East Fork Trail. I turned around after 2:40 hours and returned for a total hike of 5:00 hours.

Groundhog Stock Trail-East

This east five mile segment of the Groundhog Stock Trail starts at the Cross Mountain Trail Head, about two miles south of the Lizard Head Pass in the San Juan National Forest in southwest Colorado. There is also a western segment near the Navajo Lake and Burro Bridge Trails.

After about ten minutes on the Cross Mountain Trail, the Groundhog Stock Trail branches off to the left and travels to the southwest along the edge of the Lizard Head Wilderness Area. This area has three of the Colorado 14ers, plus the unique Lizard Head formation.

The first mile of the trail passes through thick spruce and fir forest. There were some mud holes and some spots where the trail is a little vague through this area.

 After about 45 minutes the trail arrives at a flower filled moist meadow, then exits the thick forest.

After the forest meadow the route opens up giving good views and descends steeply down to Slate Creek where there is a footbridge.

 Slate Creek flows down and becomes an early contributor to the Dolores River near the Cayton Campground. There is the second smaller Coke Oven Creek a little further on.

After Slate Creek the trail grade is reasonably flat through a long area of meadows with islands of spruce and fir. There are good mountain views both ahead and behind and lots of summer wildflowers in the meadows.

The last segment of trail passes along the north side of a very wide and long meadow area. There was a confusing spot where an old road section of trail appears to dead end when entering the meadow. The inconspicuous single track trail continues to the right around the shoulder, avoiding the mushy spots below.

The trail ends at the east end of The Meadows along Forest Road 535, and the south flanks of Mount Wilson come into view. I took about 4:30 hours to walk this 10 mile out and back route.